Do you really think you can get Gobi Manchurian in a restaurant in China? These Indo-Chinese dishes, from the Chinatown of Kolkata (formerly Calcutta) and now the rest of India, convey a tale that goes beyond the scope of any menu. It’s about street sellers using desi kadai and improvising to create magic, and about Indians who demand their favourite spices.
More than in restaurants, it was on street corners that Indo-Chinese food was really democratised. In the ’80s and ’90s, street-side food stalls were commonplace in Indian cities, particularly in Kolkata, selling Indo-Chinese dishes. Slowly, Indian spices began to permeate their stir-fried noodles, dumplings, and gravies made with soy flour. Garlic, chilli, and coriander were added to dishes by street sellers and tiny restaurants to suit local tastes.
Due to the heavy use of local veggies, Chinese cuisine in India was able to lower its price point. Moreover, it was quicker than conventional Indian cooking, so it could serve more people in an hour. Let’s learn more about the history of these Chinese dishes with the secret Indian ingredient that gives these meals their distinctive flavour.
Noodles are a central dish in China, and there are many regional variations of the dish. Authentic Hakka recipes are quite different from the Hakka noodles sold in India. Mixed with cabbage, carrots, beans, spring onions, and soy sauce, these noodles are made with wheat or even Maggi in street variants.
That slightly burnt, smoky taste that comes from correct high-heat cooking, known as wok hei, or the “breath of the wok,” is the secret. When cooked properly, the noodles retain their individual strands, while the coating prevents them from becoming mushy, and the veggies retain their natural crunch.
A genuine Indian creation, Chicken Manchurian or veg Manchurian is perhaps the most well-known Indo-Chinese cuisine. Nelson Wang, a third-generation Chinese-Indian chef who opened Mumbai's China Garden in the '70s, is generally believed to be its creator.
Reportedly, while experimenting with different ingredients, he just coated chicken in a cornflour batter and accompanied it with a sauce made of soy sauce, vinegar, ginger, and green chillies. Importantly, unlike traditional Chinese preparation, the sauce is often thickened with cornflour and served as a gravy.
Despite its Chinese roots, the Indian street-style spring roll is a fusion dish full of fusion flavours, filled with cabbage, carrots, capsicum, and sometimes noodles, and fried till crisp. Crunchiness meets sweet-spicy chutneys, and that’s where the attraction is.
Cooking spring rolls at home is even simpler and healthier, as one can skip the frying and bake them instead. For extra crunch, mix in a few sesame seeds with the filling. These are best served as a starter in an Indo-Chinese platter.
One dish that shows a smooth integration of Indian and Chinese flavours is Chilli Paneer. Whether you like it with or without rice, this spicy and saucy dish is a delightful combination of paneer (Indian cottage cheese) cubes, onions, bell peppers, and a blend of soy, chilli and vinegar.
The chilli paneer often goes with Indo-Chinese fried rice, which is more overpowering than the traditional Chinese version, with a plethora of vibrant veggies mixed in with strong flavours of soy, garlic, and chilli. To make it at home, you can use day-old rice for the ideal texture and top it off with a dab of sesame oil to make it shine.
Indo-Chinese cuisine throughout India is largely influenced and popularised because of its ideal compatibility with the street-food environment.
When it comes to the flavour profile, the spicy, tangy, and somewhat sweet tones appeal to every part of the Indian palette. They provide a refreshing change from the heavy curries and rotis that are traditionally served. Fried rice, chilli paneer and chicken are inexpensive to make and sell by using locally available vegetables and concentrating on spices with strong flavour profiles.
In order to cook quickly, street vendors whip up noodles and fried rice in minutes using the wok (or kadai) method, which calls for high heat and rapid tossing.
A lot of the flavour in Indo-Chinese cuisine comes from sauces and fresh veggies. So, it is important to wash and cut vegetables thoroughly, separate raw and cooked ingredients, and preserve sauces in the correct way. If you want to get that street-style taste at home without sacrificing safety, try using clean pans or woks, not recycling oil, and serving it hot for maximum flavour.